BACKGROUND.

Lash Lifting is an increasingly popular service to achieve bolder, more defined lash extensions. Also known as lash perming or lash lamination, lash lifts use a blend of chemicals to reshape your lashes into a more curly formation while also boosting the width of each individual eyelash for a fuller appearance. The effect of a properly performed lash lift is similar to 3 coats of a highly-rates tubing mascara - without all the mess and hassle of cleaning + reapplying new product each day.

Lash lifts are perfect for the modern working woman, busy student, or stressed mom. Lash lifts typically take about 45 to 75 minutes to apply depending on the specific formula used. They last 5-8 weeks, or until you experience a full growth cycle of your eyelash hairs. As soon as your eyelashes consist of mostly new untreated new growth, it’s time for a new service.

Are LASH LIFTS GOOD for my SALON?

Most people are excellent candidates for lash lifts, with a few exceptions. Keep in mind that Lash Lifts DO NOT add any length to your lashes, nor can they fill in sparse gaps in your lash line. For that reason, lifts are not a good option for those with short, damaged, or sparse lash lines. If you currently have chemical damage to your lashes due to a previously performed lash lift, likewise you are not a great candidate for lash lifts.

Because of how many clients will likely be excellent candidates, we strongly encourage lash extension providers to also add lash lifting to their service menu to boost revenues. It’s a quick, 30-45 minute way to bring in hundreds of extra dollars each month.

Lash Lift at the Lash Lab of Baltimore — **FIGURE:** Lash Lift performed at the Lash Lab of Baltimore

The PROCESS of LASH LIFTING.

STEP 1: PREPPING THE CLIENT

In order to ensure the lash lifting solution can fully penetrate the lashes, it’s critical to fully cleanse the lashes prior to the service to remove any oils, cosmetics, and detritus. Some salons may use a protein remover or degreaser, while other prefer to use a lash cleanser or shampoo.

STEP 2: SELECTING THE FORMS

The strength of your ultimate lash curl depends on the curl of the form or mold your lashes will be brushed against. The correct form for your lash length and volume needs to be selected based on your preferences.

STEP 3: APPLYING THE LASH LIFT SOLUTION

A chemical formulated to reshape the keratin bonds in your lashes into a curly contortion is applied.

STEP 3: APPLYING THE NEUTRALIZING SOLUTION

A chemical formulated to neutralize the lash lift solution is applied.

STEP 4: LASH TINT (optional)

If desired, a lash tint can be applied after the neutralizing solution.

STEP 5: CONDITIONING TREATMENT

A lash conditioner should be applied to restore health and shine to the Natural lashes.

Many lash Lift Solutions are NOT properly formulated and don’t provide accurate timing instructions.

The RISKS of LASH LIFTS.

If lash lifts are so wonderful, why are there SO many people who have negative experiences getting them? An excellent question with a complex answer.

When performed correctly, lash lifts are supposed to be a relatively straightforward service. A lash “perming” solution is applied, followed by neutralizer and a conditioning treatment. If you are looking for added darkness, you can include a lash tint after the lash lift is neutralized and before the conditioner.

There are a variety of challenges for performing lash lifts that can lead to poor outcomes. Many lash estheticians are poorly trained and don’t adhere correctly to instructions + requirements as outlined by product manufacturers. Just as with a hair perm, if the lash lift is over-processed you may end up with brittle damaged hair. If under-processed, you might not achieve the desired curl.

**FIGURE:** Application of YOMOZAKI® Lash Lift solution at Lash Lab in Baltimore

COMMON MISTAKES for LASH LIFTS:

Wondering why your lash lift doesn't look as good as everyone else’s, or why your lash lift only lasted a short amount of time? Read below to learn more about common mistakes most lash estheticians make when performing lash lifts and tints.

→ INCOMPLETE PREPARATION.

The presence of any oils, cosmetics, skincare, etc. can make it difficult for the solution to fully penetrate your lashes and work properly.

→ INCORRECT FORM SELECTION.

The lash lift form (also known as lash lift rod or shield) needs to be an optimal fit for the client. All rods and some shields must be manually cut down to size, while the 2nd generation lash shields are already a perfect fit for most eyes.

If the lash form is too small, it can lead to an excessive curl and kinks near the ends of the lashes (where the lashes overlapped the edge of curl on the form) - if you avoid applying product past the edge, you’ll get an incomplete curl. If the lash form is too large, the curl may be too light, or you may have difficulty getting the lashes to stay adhered to the form.

→ EXCESSIVE GLUE.

Lash Lift forms are adhered to the eye using an adhesive glue or balm. If too much is used, it can impede penetration of the lash lift solution.

**FIGURE:** Example of Damage from Amazon-Purchased Lash Lift Formulation

→ BAD FORMULATIONS.

Many lash artists use formulas purchased from Amazon, Ebay, etc. that are mass produced in China. They often use formulas originally intended for perms applied to hair on the scalp, which renders them far too strong for lashes. This leads to an overly-aggressive solution and makes damage an almost certainty.

→ TIMING ISSUES.

All lash lift manufactures provide specific timing guides for lash extensions based on the health of the lashes (thin, medium, or coarse). Usually the amount of time for the lift solution is equal to the amount of time for the neutralization step (about 7-15 minutes).

Having the solution on for even 1-2 minutes too long can lead to damaged, frazzled ends. If the solutions are under processed, you won’t get a long-lasting curl. It’s critical to properly evaluate the client’s natural lashes to ensure that you get the accurate timing.

→ IMPROPER APPLICATION.

The lash lift solution needs to be applied to the entirety of the base and mid-sections of the lashes, avoiding the fragile ends. Steps 3 and 4 (the lifting solutions + the neutralizer) ought to be removed with a damp cotton swab prior to going on to subsequent steps to avoid excessive processing.

Won’t a damp swab ruin my lift? ABSOLUTELY NOT! When you get your hair permed, don’t they rinse the product out of your hair in between each step and before you leave? Slight moisture is not going to disrupt disulfide bonds in your hair. When hair gets wet, the proteins that make up each strand become weaker, making it easier to damage by pulling, stretching, bending, or rough handling. So as long as you’re not rough there is nothing to fear.

**FIGURE:** Typical complaints from Lash Lift customers.

The CHEMISTRY of LASH LIFTS.

As you likely know, all human hair is composed of a complex formation of Keratin molecules - this includes hair on your hair, lashes, armpits - literally everywhere. The type of keratin that makes up your teeth and nails is known as alpha-keratin - it’s secondary structure forms the alpha-helices coils that we recognize as hair coils and curls.

The amino acid groups of neighboring keratin molecules can further interact with each other to form both weak (temporary) and strong (permanent) bonds. These additional interactions lead to a contorting of each keratin chain into a unique formation - which ends up becoming the basis for your unique curl pattern. Your curl pattern can vary from strand to strand depending on the specific interaction of the amino acid groups within any one strand.

Most lash lifting solutions are formulated with Ammonium Thioglycolate (or in some cases, ethanolamine). Ammonium Thioglycolate is preferred for its strength in disrupting the disulfide bridges in the keratin molecules of your eyelashes - disulfide bridges are the strongest bond in human hair (between sulfur atoms in adjoining keratin molecules) that contribute to the integrity of your curl pattern. By disrupting the bonds, you can manually reshape the curls in your hair to a more desirable position.

Because the Ammonium Thioglycolate is highland alkaline (typically most solutions have a pH around 12), any acidic formula will halt the chemistry of the solution by neutralization - of course, acids mixed with bases will lead to a neutral solution. This is why all hair perms, lash lifts, etc. are always followed by a neutralizing step to prevent over-processing of the hair.

However, Ammonium Thioglycolate is a very potent and corrosive molecule. It has the power to fully dissolve and lyse all bonds contained within your hair. If the solution is left on too long or not fully neutralized, it can damage your hair irreparably leaving a frazzled, split-end appearance. In the worst case scenario, your hair may become so brittle that it falls out!

why AMMONIA FREE ?

Ammonia in the form of Ammonium Thioglycolate is the culprit behind many risks associated with lash lifts. For one, it is a very corrosive chemical that is frequently associated with allergic reactions. Even if a client isn’t initially allergic, repeated exposure can lead to the development of a pseudo-allergic response known as Allergic Contact Dermatitis.

Secondly, Ammonium Thioglycolate solutions are frequently linked to over-processing of the natural lashes. If you’ve seen frazzled, frayed lashes with split-ends, Ammonia was the culprit.

So what chemical do Ammonia-Free solutions use instead of Ammonia? Cysteamine. Cysteamine is the same ingredient used in 2nd generation Brazilian Blowouts to reduce potential exposure to formaldehyde.

IS IT ORGANIC?

No, there is absolutely NO SUCH THING as an organic lash lift solution. Organic refers to agriculturally organic products as tightly defined + regulated by the USDA - meaning it must be procured direct from nature with no after-market processing. The ingredients used in all lifts are synthesized by chemists in labs and are not naturally found in nature. There’s no special fruit that you can squeeze to get lash lift solution!

If a salon is marketing their lash lift or tint as organic, they are unfortunately mistaken - it is actually illegal to market any service or product as organic without a USDA certification. Many uneducated individuals confuse Vegan or Non-toxic with Organic - just be aware.

**FIGURE**: YOMOZAKI® Lash Lifting Offered at Lash Lab.

Introducing YOMOZAKI.

YOMOZAKI® is a luxury cosmetic formulary based in Germany. Specializing in lash and brow services, they’ve launched two different professional lash and brow lamination kits as well as brow design cosmetics under the NOI brand.

They decided to launch an Ammonia-Free brand after seeing a huge gap in the market for a clean beauty, safer and non-toxic alternative to traditional lash lifts. They bear Vegan Certifications across the EU, and are well-reputed with salons and estheticians overseas.

The PROCESS of YOMOZAKI LASH LIFTS.

YOMOZAKI Lash Lifts are a revolutionary introduction to the world of lash lifts. For the 1st time, you can actually combine the Neutralizing Step with the Lash Tinting step - yes, you read that correctly! That means no more removing the neutralizing solution dn waiting and extra 10-15 minutes for your tint to develop. You can simply mix your lash tint in a 1:1 ratio with the YOMOZAKI® Neutralizing solution and apply the blend directly to the lashes after the lifitng solution is applied and removed.

YOMOZAKI carries the Ammonia-Free formulation, also termed the Sensitive formula, as well as an EXPRESS formula that does contain Ammonia. The EXPRESS formula is a great option for those with stubborn lashes that are resistant to the sensitive formula, or if you have a client that arrived late to an appointment.