Are LED UV Gel Lash Extensions Safe? We Asked a Cosmetic Scientist.
theLASH LAB
VEGAN & CLEAN BEAUTY PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTOR.
SHOP NOW.
VEGAN & CLEAN BEAUTY PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTOR. SHOP NOW.
There are no known risk factors associated with LED Lash Extensions, but the determination of safety is up to you.
KEY POINTS:
→ LED Lash Extesnions Are An Excellent Option.
→ There Are No Confirmed Health Risks.
→ The Ultimate Determination of Safety is Up To You.
BACKGROUND.
LED UV Gel Lash Extensions have taken the lash industry by storm. After launching in East Asia in 2021, many lash extension providers have dabbled in this new state-of-the-art lash extension technology. However, due to concerns over the use of LED UV lamps in nail salons, many are confused about whether LED UV lash extensions are really safe.
Here at Lash Lab, we pride ourselves in applying the scientific method to assessing all challenges. We decided to ask one of our staff Cosmetic Chemists to provide some insight into whether these systems are truly “safe” - we wanted to know what a fully trained scientist had to say about LED Lash Extensions. It turns out that the answer is not as straightforward as you’d think.
What is LED UV Gel?
Let’s start with the basics. LED UV Gel refers to any Cyanoacrylate-based adhesive resin that is “polymerized” (cured or dried) by the application of ultraviolet light emitted from LED (Lithium Emitting Diode) bulbs, as opposed to incandescent lightbulbs. Standard Air-Drying Adhesive resins made from Cyanoacrylate monomers are cured by exposure to water vapor in the air - this is why lashes tend to dry more quickly (sometimes even too quickly) in humid conditions. Normally, we advise that you avoid water for 24 Hours - to minimize the risk of shock curing that impedes adhesion with your natural lashes.
FYI, Cyanoacrylate is the same ingredient in nail glue and most superglues. Lash adhesive resins also incorporate some type of preservative/stabilizer, a formula thickener, and often some type of pigment to prevent a whitish cast to the dried resin. The more additives a resin has, the longer it will take to fully dry - this is why the fastest drying adhesive resins often have a very high viscosity and a watery texture.
How does the LED Lamp dry the Gel?
Well, like we said normally the polymerization (curing) of the adhesive resin is catalyzed by exposure to water vapor molecules in the air. Adhesive Resins that are intended to be cured by Ultraviolet Light include a more non-reactive version of Cyanoacrylate as well as a photo initiator that will become “photo-excited” upon exposure to the high-energy light particles in UV light, also known as photons. The energy harnessed by these photo-initiator molecules will power the immediate + rapid-scale polymerization of the entire segment of adhesive.
FIGURE: Image depicting the Photo-Excitation process
LED refers to the type of Lightbulb, whereas Ultraviolet (UV) Light is a specific wavelength of light. . ALL LED lash systems utilize some form of UV light.
What is Ultraviolet (UV) Light?
Ultraviolet Light refers to a specific range of light on the Electromagnetic Spectrum. For those who don’t know, all “waves” including light, sound, etc. have a specific wavelength and place on the Electromagnetic Spectrum. This includes infrared light, microwaves, X-rays, visible light - you name it!
UV Light is technically between 100-400 nm in wavelength - this is further divided into UVA (315-400 nm) UVB (280-315 nm) and UVC (100-280 nm). UVC rays bear the least amount of risk because they barely penetrate the skin. The most potentially damaging rays are UVA and UVB rays.
Our lamps here at Lash Lab are a dual spectrum, and emit light at 365nm (UVA) and 405nm (Visible Light).
What is the difference between UV and LED?
Again, UV refers to the TYPE of light, where as LED refers to the TYPE of lightBULB. In the past, manufacturers used to use incandescent light bulbs (the normal lightbulbs in your lamps at home) for salon applications (such as nail lamps). However, the lamps tended to burn out quickly and require frequent replacement. As a workaround, manufacturers began to use longer-lasting LED bulbs hence the name LED lamp.
You really cannot compare UV and LED - it’s like asking what the difference is between Rock Music and a Radio - it just doesn’t make sense!
Isn’t UV Light Dangerous?
Yes, absolutely. UV Light is a form of non-ionizing radiation and as a result tends to negatively affect the function of your cells at the molecular level. It is well-documented to be carcinogenic, and is the primary culprit behind deadly cancers such as Melanoma.
As of yet there have been NO documented cases of any clinical symptoms directly linked to UV nail manicuring or lash extensions. A 2023 study in nail salon UV lamps demonstrated carcinogenic possibilities within Petri dishes in lab settings - however, the results are NOT directly applicable to human or animal models - you have corneocytes in your dermis that block a great deal of UV radiation, whereas a Petri dish does not.
Remember, there is UV light even in the sunlight! Even with sunblock, you are still receiving UV exposure every time you leave your home. It’s difficult to quantify the specific risk of UV exposure in salon settings as compared to natural sunlight exposure until further studies are completed. But keep in mind again that UV and LED UV nail lamps have been around for 20-30 years without even ONE reported case of symptoms.
Technically it’s also dangerous to breathe air (ozone and pollution), drink water from the tap (perchlorate and fluoride), it’s dangerous to heat food in plastic (estrogenic bisphenol), it’s dangerous to wear makeup (forever chemicals), it’s dangerous to eat takeout Chinese (MSG, excess sodium, GMO soybean oil, processed ingredients), and it’s dangerous to be in a car on a hot day the (aerosolized plasticizers).
Hopefully you can see where this goes - at this point it’s pretty much dangerous to be alive! There are SO many risks associated with waking up each day, so it’s hard to know which one is worse. Nobody wants to live in a bubble just trying to avoid carcinogens - it’s all about mitigating risk. If there are things you can do like avoiding plastic for + beverage packaging and staying away from takeout, then great! If for you, getting lashes is an important part of your routine, then see where you can minimize oxidative stress elsewhere.
It’s not entirely accurate to represent LED Lashes as being “proven safe” - while there are no known specific risks they have NOT been proven safe quite yet.
FIGURE: Our Overhead LED Gel Extension Lamps.
How much UV lIGHT are you EXPOSED to during LED EXTENSIONS?
This is a great question - in total, you are exposed to about 7-8 minutes of UV light (this includes 2 seconds for every lash extension applied assuming 150 lashes across both eyes plus 2-3 minutes of final curing). A quick-Drying Glue may cut the time down to about 5 minutes.
Just a fun fact: a 2011 study on human cadaver hands found that the nail plate completely blocked UVB and allowed only 0.5%-2.5% of UVA to penetrate, indicating that the nail plate is an effective photoprotective layer for the nail bed. Eumelanin (the type of melanin found in darker-skin individuals) is also known to absorb, reflect, and scatter UV light. While this study seems promising, it’s important to note that the skin on the hands is far thicker than the skin around the eyes - and of course their is no firm “nail plate” to protect your ocular region.
Again, until further studies are performed it’s impossible to quantify the total amount of absorbed radiation or the total risk in comparison, let’s say, to natural sunlight exposure.
Does the TYPE of LED LAMP MATTER?
Absolutely! Many lamps currently being used were not developed for use on human skin and may be excessively strong. Here at the Lash Lab, we use a lamp that was specifically designed for use on your eyelashes to optimize safety for you - it emits only about 5 Watts of UV light. This degree of strength is thought to be extremely weak.
For reference, usually Nails Salons use Lamps with a wattage of 24-36 Watts to cure gel nails, and 45-60 Watts to cure thicker gel nail extensions (also known as Crystal Gels, or Gel Overlays).
How to MINIMIZE UV EXPOSURE RISK during LED EXTENSIONS.
There are a few steps that your lash artist can do to minimize the risk factor:
1 - USE A WEAK LED LAMP.
The weaker the lamp, the lower the penetration of the UV light. Unfortunately, many salons are using lamps that ARE NOT rated for use on human skin and are far too strong.
2 - USE EYE PADS.
Your Lash Artist can place Hydrogel Eye Pads to the upper eyelids as well as the bottom eyelids to physically block the UV light from reaching the skin.
3 - USE A QUICK-DRYING ADHESIVE
The quicker your lashes are “cured”, the less light you’ll have to apply overall.
4 - APPLY SUNBLOCK
If you are particularly concerned, you can apply a physical sunblock containing Titanium Dioxide or Zinc Oxide to the area around your eyes, making sure to avoid the immediate area surrounding the lash line.
5 - UV PROTECTIVE GLASSES
The lash artist should certainly proetct their Eyesight using protective glasses.
LED Gel Lash Extensions are Excellent for clients with allergies or those seeking more longevity.
What Are the BENEFITS of LED Gel LASH EXTENSIONS?
Why do people still get LED Lash Extensions in spite of the potential risks? LED Lash Extensions are an excellent option for clients under a few circumstances. If your client has previously had poor reactions to lash extensions, or they are looking for a longer-lasting look with minimal Aftercare, LED Extensions might be the way to go.
HYPOALLERGENIC
LED Lash Adhesive Resins are Clear, and Free of Carbon Black Pigments, which are a major source of allergic reaction for clients.
They also don’t release residual fumes when lashes are moistened during cleansing or bathing.
FAST DRYING
LED Lash Extensions Cure Immediately due to the Photon-Mediated Polymerization.
This means there is no drying time post service - you can get your lashes wet immediately.
The Immediate Drying also prevents “Stickies”, the unintentional adhesion of adjacent lashes to each other.
NO COMPLEX AFTERCARE
Because your lashes are fully dry at the end of your service, your clients won’t need to avoid water
LIGHTWEIGHT
Clients often remark that the lashes feel much “lighter” than traditional lash extensions. The slow drying period of traditional adhesives causes a constriction and retraction of the natural lashes that can be painful or uncomfortable, whereas the instant drying of LED Gel lashes is painless.
LONGER-LASTING
Because the lashes are fully cured before the clients leave, there is a much lower risk for unexpected lash fallout and far better retention of the lash extensions.
Clients can’t damage lash longevity as badly!
You may be able to expand your schedule to accept more new clients at higher prices since your Backfill services will become more infrequent.
HIGHER REVENUES
If existing clients can wait longer in between services due to added longevity, you can book more Full Sets for added income.
The quick-drying nature of the adhesive allows you to complete services more quickly and see more clients within a day.
SHOULD ANYONE AVOID LED Gel LASH EXTENSIONS?
We don’t know of any clinical reason for avoiding LED Lash Extensions at this time, but you may want to skip LED Lash Extensions if you know yourself to be at high risk for skin cancer.
FIGURE: LED Gel Extensions Applied at the Lash Lab in Baltimore
The PROCESS of LED Gel LASH EXTENSIONS.
STEP 1: PREPPING THE CLIENT
In order to ensure the best adhesion, it’s critical to fully cleanse the lashes prior to the service to remove any oils, cosmetics, and detritus. Some salons may use a protein remover or degreaser, while other prefer to use a lash cleanser or shampoo.
STEP 2: PROTECTING THE OCULAR AREA
The lash artist will apply pads under the eyes to protect you from the sharp ends of the tweezer, as well as applying sensitive tape over your bottom lashes to prevent from accidentally taping your lashes together.
STEP 3: DETERMINING THE LASH DESIGN
Based on your preferences & the results of your initial consultation, the lash artist will map out the ideal design for your lash extensions using various lengths, curls, and diameters.
STEP 3: APPLYING THE LASHES
Lash Extensions are painstakingly applied one-by-one to each of your natural lashes, requiring each lash to be carefully isolated by a tweezer to ensure that lashes are not sticking together. After every lash is applied, the lash artist will apply about 1-3 seconds of LED UV light.
STEP 4: FINAL CURING
After all lashes are cured, the lash artist will spend 1-3 minutes completing a final curing of all of the lashes. All gel pads and tapes will be removed and a final Nanomisting is optional.
COMMON MISTAKES for LED EXTENSIONS:
Wondering why your lash lift doesn't look as good as everyone else’s, or why your lash lift only lasted a short amount of time? Read below to learn more about common mistakes most lash estheticians make when performing lash lifts and tints.
→ INCOMPLETE PREPARATION.
The presence of any oils, cosmetics, skincare, etc. can make it difficult for the lashes to fully adhere to your lashes.
→ INADEQUATE CURING
It’s important to ensure that each lash is cured for 1-3 seconds depending on the instructions provided with the adhesive. Lashes should also be fully cured for 1.5-3 minutes at the end of the service.
→ EXCESSIVE GLUE.
If too much is used, it can lead to whitish balls or bulbs near the base of the lashes.
→ BAD FORMULATIONS.
Many lash artists use formulas purchased from Amazon, Ebay, etc. that are mass produced in China. They often use formulas originally intended for perms applied to hair on the scalp, which renders them far too strong for lashes. This leads to an overly-aggressive solution and makes damage an almost certainty.
FIGURE: LED Lash Extension Application
WHAT Does the LAW SAY about LED GEL LASHES ?
As of now, we’re not aware of any municipal, regional, gubernatorial, or federal body that has issues legal regulations surrounding LED Gel Lashes. However, if you are concerned you may want to reach out directly to the agency that regulates the practice of cosmetology and esthetics in your region.
You may also want to ask your insurer about whether they cover LED Lashes - so far, we’ve been hearing that most major insurers do indeed cover these services.
How SHOULD I SET UP my WAIVER FORM for LED GEL LASH EXTENSIONS?
You don’t need a specific LED waiver form, but you do need to ensure that your clients are signing a general waiver of liability. This means that you won’t be liable for any damage outside of damages related to your own mistakes or improper application of the service or treatment.
You can have it printed on paper, or include it in your preferred form software to be agreed to prior to your service (We recommend JotForm or WaiverForerver). Make sure you do have some form of signature to ensure your document is binding, whether that’s a digital signature or a wet signature on paper.
You can also include liability waivers in your Terms & Conditions that client must agree to, and mandate a checkbox of agreement during the booking process. Even so, we still recommend a signature!
→ SAMPLE LIABILITY WAIVER:
I release (YOUR SALON NAME), its employees and its agents harmless against any and all liability,damage, and/or expenses arising out of or in connection with actions, claims, and/or damages resulting in personal injuries and disabilities (physical and/or psychological) that I might incur as a result of the chemical altercation through all lash extension services (including services incorporating LED Gel applications). I understand that I must adhere to the prescribed aftercare regimen to ensure appropriate results, and that damage to my eyelashes is possible due to the services rendered.
FIGURE: TAHNYC® Gentle Cleanser Offered at Lash Lab.
How Do I TAKE CARE of my LED GEL LASH EXTENSIONS?
The Aftercare Protocol of LED Gel Lash Extensions is quite similar to traditional Lash Extensions, with the exception of avoiding water for 24 hours.
Avoid Excessive Agitation
This means no rubbing, picking, pulling, or scratching. Of course, no lash lifting, tinting, or curling with extensions. Also skip saunas if you can!
Limit Oil-Containing Makeup and Skincare.
We strongly recommend Kalentin® Italia Cosmetics for their long-lasting oil-free eyeliners. Mascara is a no-no.
Cleanse your Lashes Dialy.
Our favorite cleanser is the TAHNYC® Skincare Gentle Cleanser - it’s free from any additives, fillers, fragrances, parabens, and sulfates.
Sleep on Your Back
Minimize pressure to the eyelashes by back-sleeping if possible.
HOW MUCH to CHARGE for LED GEL LASH EXTENSIONS?
The price you choose to charge varies heavily with the geographic region and the amount of competition in your local area. Larger, expensive cities with high costs of living will certainly be higher-priced than rural or suburban markets. For reference, here in Baltimore we choose to charge an additional $25 for LED Gel Lashes.
We’ve seen some salons transition fully to the LED system and fully abandon traditntal adhesive resins. Some clients will not respond well to LED lashes, so be careful of forcing all clients to transition into the LED system without properly explaining it to them beforehand.
Where to BUY LED GEL LASH EXTENSION DEVICES.
We’re pleased to distribute Kits here at the LASH LAB! We’ll be making the kits available along with a recorded online training + certification in the near future - stay tuned!
In CONCLUSION.
When choosing a salon, it’s important to find a provider you can trust. As of now, there aren't many lash providers in the United States that provide safer, hypoallergenic alternatives. Lash Lab is the ONLY LED Gel Eyelash Extension providers in Baltimore.
Do you live in an area that doesn’t offer the LED Gel™ lash system? Fill out the form below to request that your local salon add the service - we’ll reach out to them to make it happen!